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Jan 15
E5e3f824a2b7763ac0e1083f3c25d030

Brockagh Mountain

Logged by valerie under Alpine climbing

Hiked up Brockagh with Rebecca - fairly miserable weather to be honest.

Sep 11
Micro_gina

Biopfeiler 2843m- Via Classica

Logged by Ribena under Alpine climbing

Jeff and I made our way up from the bivi at the dam to the base of Biopfeiler (circa 1hr15m). Beautiful weather. Fantastic route! Amazing rock and beautiful cracks. Bring cams. 250m (7/8 L) the guide topo is all messed up unfortunately.

Time up: 3h 0m
Total time: 3h 0m
Height gain: 250 m
Sep 10
Micro_gina

Pizzo Balzetto (2869m)- Spidi route (...

Logged by Ribena under Alpine climbing

Got first funivia up to the dam with Jeff and left our stuff at a bivi site, then made our way over the base of Balzetto. I for some reason was suffering from weird vertigo since waking up that morning, and probably shouldn't have gone climbing, but it had mostly gone by late morning. 8 pitches of really fun climbing (Via Spidi) on lovely rock, and then the guide says you can climb 400m of Grade 2/3 rock to the summit. We climbed the first 8 pitches pretty fast, and then things got a bit confusing. After about 100m of dodgy simul climbing on quite slippy rock (from moss) we got onto the ridge line proper. We simul climbed mostly, but did have to pitch some super exposed bits higher up (that were harder than grade 2/3). At one point there's a fantastic exposed knife edge ridge line to climb :-) Once you reach a summit (not the real summit!) you have to traverse down around the left side of it until you find a rap station on the other side of it. (We rappelled with 2 60m ropes, maybe one would do). Then scramble to the top of the real summit and over the other side to find a second rappel (very short- one rope). Walk across to a third smaller summit and around to the left of it to find a third rap station (30m). After this it's a scramble down a short gully (or a rappel of just less than 30m). And a hike down to the rifugio and down to the dam. (Times recorded are guesstimates:after the pitched climbing at the start it took longer than expected but can't remember exact times)

Time up: 6h 30m
Time down: 2h 30m
Total time: 9h 0m
Aug 18
Micro_gina

Climbing in Albigna with Diarmuid

Logged by Ribena under Alpine climbing

Got the first funivia up to the dam (although that day it felt WAY too early!) Climbed "Wassersinfonie" (5a,150m) on the placche del lago and then straight on up to Pizzo dal Pal (2618m) to do via Piccolo (5c+, 180m). It was Diarmuid's first day climbing in the mountains and he was fantastic. Already knew he was a strong climber so this was more for testing his head with the heights and exposure etc. He'll be back :-)

Aug 12
Micro_gina

Pizzo Biopfeiler: Via Miki (5c) 220m

Logged by Ribena under Alpine climbing

Jeff, Mauro and I got one of the first funivia up to the dam and hiked in to the base of Biopfeiler (1hr 30 mins, walking fast). There was a group of 8 people (!!) at the base of Via classica so we changed route plans and did Miki instead. It was mauro's first route in the mountains :-) Lovely route. A little weird for route finding at times, but beautiful rock and lovely climbing. Easier than Via Classica. Easy walk down to the base (15-20mins)

Time up: 3h 0m
Total time: 3h 0m
Height gain: 220 m
Jul 31
Micro_gina

Piz Frachiccio: Via Roland (Albigna)

Logged by Ribena under Alpine climbing

We woke in our bivi cave to a glorious sunny day in Albigna. Jeff and I hiked in the short approach to the base of Piz Frachiccio (20mins ish). Absolutely beautiful route on lovely rock. 450m of mostly 5c+ to 5b with crux of 6a (12 pitches). All bolted, although I used one cam (green) along the way. Well bolted for most of it. We linked pitch 7 and 8, but together it ended up being about 65 m so we had to simmel climb the last bit (easy). Simple descent off the back side, with 3 rappels and a walk down the scree to the trail. Lurvely!

Times: Approach from bivi: 20 mins Climb: 3hrs 15 Descent: 1hr 20 Hike down to car: 1hr 45

Height gain: 450 m
Jul 30
Micro_gina

Piz Frachiccio: Via Tartaruga

Logged by Ribena under Alpine climbing

We got the first cable car up from Vicosoprano at 7am, found a bivi site, and then set off to the base of the route. Easy to find and quick approach (approx 20 mins). A great route, with excellent rock. An easier route than the one we did the following day, with 550m of 6a+ to 4's (mostly 5's and 4's). Easy descent with a short walk down to a single long 60m rappel and then a hike down scree to the trail back. Mostly bolted, but brought green and red cams. Bolts more run out than on the "Roland" route but probably because grades were easier.

Times: Approach: 20 mins Climb: 4,30hrs Descent to bivi: 1,30hrs

Height gain: 550 m
Aug 28
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Spazzacaldera Intero

Logged by Jeff Gardner under Alpine climbing

Came up to Albigna on friday night with Darragh Flanagan and his girlfriend Mandy. Chaos ensued when I realized that I had left the helmets at home. Doh. Gina then went back to Chiavenna while the three of us took the cable car with the bags (including Gina's) up to the lake. (Gina hiked in later that evening with the helmets). Good dinner, a bottle of wine and fresh wild blueberries were shared by all that evening.

Gina and I did Via Felici/Mosaico until it ran out and then continued up the ridge to the Dente and Fiamma. We were plagued by climbers trying to climb to close to us (but not fast enough to actually pass us). Culminating in an idiot that began leading the Fiamma when Gina had just left the ground. He got the pleasure of hanging around waiting for the anchor for a while (though he did ruin our photos of the Fiamma, bastard!)

Great long route though and wonderful day of it. We hiked back down to town and left Darragh and Mandy up there for another day.

Aug 21
Micro_gina

Pizzo Ferrè

Logged by Ribena under Alpine climbing

Lovely peak with fantastic views, with lots of variety in the terrain. Interesting hike (up to the rifugio then on to the glacier), then steep snow slope, followed by a rocky ridge with scrambly moves to the summit. No need for crampons, axe or rope. Beautiful weather. Lots of laughs with Jeff, Mauro, Seb, Fabio, Fabrizio, Tano and Jack (Giaccomo). We were moving fast but then taking long sociable breaks for the group to stick together. (Should take no more than 3 hours to the summit with a smaller group).

Time up: 3h 30m
Aug 21
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Pizzo Ferré

Logged by Jeff Gardner under Alpine climbing

Wonderful sunny day with a big group. As gina said, it was a great day of moving fast then big sociable, wine and food breaks. Like a mobile party nearly. The peak itself is absolutely stunning and the glacier is generally easy with few if any crevassasses. The rock ridge at the top could be exciting with some snow or verglas but in the sunshine it's delightful.

Time up: 3h 30m